Salmon and Horseradish – Raw & Fresh
Some foods go together so well it is hard not to always have the same pairings. Smoked salmon and horseradish is one such example, but raw salmon or salmon caviar are equally enhanced by the flavour of fresh horseradish. The taste of store bought creamed horseradish is often blanketed by a sweet & sour mayo flavour, so if you can get it, make your own from fresh horseradish root (available at markets or ask your green grocer) or failing that go for minced horseradish and add it to the cream yourself. With fresh horseradish root, peel it, finely grate it and mix with crème fraîche or pure cream, a little squeeze of lemon and salt. That’s it. The fresh horseradish may make you weep a little when you grate it and it can have quite a kick, so use however much you can handle. It also is fabulous with a steak, so won’t go to waste if you keep it for another day or two.
Salmon tartare is raw fish, so you will need to source the salmon from the market or a good fish monger and ask them to cut it fresh from the whole salmon. Don’t be tempted to add lemon juice to salmon tartare as it will “cook” the fish and for a really fresh tasting dish it’s best to combine the fish with the other mixed ingredients and plate just prior to serving. This version of salmon tartare I encountered in several bistros in France, where it is hugely popular for lunch accompanied by a glass of white wine – the French sure know how to break for lunch.
Tartare Au Deux Saumon (two salmon tartare)
For 4 people as an entrée
- 400 g fresh cut salmon fillet
- 100 g smoked salmon
- 1 tbs capers, rinsed, patted dry with paper and chopped
- 5 cornichon, finely diced
- 1 tbs salad onion or spring onion, finely chopped
- 1 tbs chives, finely sliced
- 1 desert spoon dill, chopped
- few drops tabasco sauce
- 1/2 tsp sea salt
- 1/4 tsp white pepper
- 1 tbs light olive oil
- 1 tbs grape seed or sunflower oil
- zest of a lemon
To prepare the fresh salmon take out the pin bones with a pair of tweezers. Lay the salmon skin side down and while holding the tail tip of skin ease the flesh off the skin by pushing and slicing with a very sharp knife at a 45 degree angle. Cut the fillet into two or three 0.5 cm thick slices and place in a glass dish in the freezer for 15 minutes while you prepare the other ingredients. Mix all the other ingredients except the fish together in a bowl and store in the fridge until ready to assemble and eat.
Cut the fish slices into 0.5 cm strips and then cut into small dice. Do the same with the smoked salmon slices. Mix the fish together. Refrigerate but keep separate from the other ingredients until ready to serve.
Mix the fish and other flavourings together, adjust seasoning if necessary and plate approximately 2 heaped tablespoons per person.
Serve with a small mound of pickled, shredded cucumber and green papaya topped with black sesame seeds and a good smear of fresh horseradish cream.