Yes, chocolate pudding does apparently grow on trees in the form of a weird fruit called black sapote. The black sapote is a relative of the persimmon and like its cousin is ready to eat when completely soft and pudding-like. The colour is intensely dark chocolate but the flavour is much more subtle with only a slight hint of chocolate. The texture is lovely and gooey, like a healthy chocolate fondant. In the back streets of Fitzroy there is a small warehouse green grocer complete with market truck parked inside. The Vegetable Connection has produce that is fresh and literally just off the truck and the black sapote was one of the curiosities or more unusual fruits that they also sell. I can’t tell you where else you can buy one but I can tell you to look out for it next time you are at a market or grocer. Spoon the flesh out and serve on top of natural yoghurt with a sprinkle of cinnamon, cocoa or a drizzle of honey. Just for the record there is also such a thing as a white sapote, but is unrelated, belonging to the citrus family. The white sapote is similarly soft with a delicate fruit salad or sometimes banana flavour. Both these fruit trees, although sub tropical, grow well in Melbourne in the right position. I encountered a very fine specimen in an open garden in Caulfield some years ago. The Vegetable Connection 85 Victoria Street, Fitzroy. 94173104.
Big Red Cabbage Ball
Shopping at farmers markets under the COVID-19 restrictions means I’m pointing at vegetables I want from some distance. Conscious of the lengthening queue behind me I recently nodded approval to a whole head of red cabbage not realizing until I stashed it in the backpack that is was the size of a large medicine ball. Crickey, I thought, how am I going to deal with such a huge, imposing sphere for a household of two? Fortunately I love red cabbage and my go to recipe is one in Stephanie Alexander’s The Cooks Companion. The shredded red cabbage is slowly cooked in a heavy pot on the stove with apple and brown sugar and then finished with some red wine vinegar and butter for a bit of bite and gloss. It’s great with roast meats and grills but it hardly made a dent on that medicine ball, so I had to start being a bit more inventive. I then cooked a similar, spicier version without all the brown sugar and tossed through a shredded cooked smoked ham hock, creating a sort of red cabbage porky casserole any Eastern European grandmother would have been happy with. For an end of the week bangers and mash I fried some Italian pure pork sausages adding heaps of shredded red cabbage and red wine to the frypan. Despite these efforts every time I opened the fridge there it still sat like a giant puppy wanting some love. It was unavoidable. What to do next? Pivoting to Asia I made a simple cabbage pickle and had it with a raw salmon rice bowl. Using red instead of green cabbage worked surprisingly well but as with all things Japanese it hardly made any impression on reducing the size of my medicine ball. Two weeks later I still have just under half a red cabbage (good thing it keeps so well in the fridge), so I thought I needed to tackle it with greater determination and include some lunchtime meals of this cabbage. That’s when I came up with my red cabbage, pumpkin and freekeh warm salad. I think it’s delicious and while I kept it pretty simple you could easily jazz it up with walnuts, pinenuts, more fresh herbs, caramelised onions, feta or goats cheese. I still have 750 grams left of that medicine ball but I reckon a couple more freekeh salads should finally make it disappear. Next time I will ask for a small one, half maybe.
Red Cabbage, Pumpkin & Freekeh Salad
1 cup freekeh (Mount Zero or Greenwheat Freekeh brands are good)
half a small red cabbage
500 g pumpkin, cut into small cubes
extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 tbs red wine vinegar
1 tbs pomegranate molasses
handful chopped parsley
Rinse the freekeh, cover with water, bring to the boil and simmer for about 20-25 minutes, adding a little more water as needed. Drain through a sieve leaving it to drain well and cool. Cut the red cabbage into narrow wedges and place on a roasting pan with the pumpkin and cumin seeds. Drizzle liberally with olive oil and roast at 170°C for about 25 minutes or until tender. Add the cooked freekeh to the roasting pan and sprinkle with salt, vinegar, molasses and parsley and toss to coat the pumpkin and cabbage. Serve warm or at room temperature.
The World Of Oysters
In France it is illegal to sell an oyster which has not been opened to order. Think about that for a minute and what it could possibly mean. The oyster is a living thing, clinging to rocks in its secure rock-like shell as the ocean tides surge and retreat. Once collected from its natural home or oyster farm frames it is still a living thing, able to withstand the wide temperature ranges it is normally exposed to during changes in sea level. Kept unopened and cool the oyster is in a natural package ready to be immediately enjoyed in the numerous simple brasseries around Paris. When freshly shucked you not only get a plump fresh oyster but the salty taste of the sea. In contrast, oysters here are sold opened in trays of a dozen, the ocean juices long washed away and the oyster sagging, drying out and long dead. The question then arises how long has it been dead? Do I trust this establishment not to keep opened oysters for too long? The opened oyster now must be kept fridge cold to prevent further degradation and the risks of eating a bad one and getting sick is higher. There is now also a need for dressings to improve flavour. The simple enjoyment of a fresh oyster tasting of the sea is lost. Restaurants here really need to up their game and open oysters to order. Some good establishments clearly do and that’s why we pay $4 a pop for the privilege. At 1980’s legendary North Melbourne restaurant, Jean Jacques, a squeeze of lemon juice would cause the oyster to retract to the acid. At how many places can you see that degree of freshness? When one oyster bar opened to much fanfare in Melbourne a few years ago oysters were not opened in front of the customer, instead trays of opened oysters arrived on a trolley from some other food preparation location, totally defeating the purpose of an oyster bar. A cocktail bar would not operate this way; customers expect the bartender to mix and shake and create something wonderful.
While choosing your restaurant carefully is an option, what can you do about this state of affairs at home? Simple. Ask for unopened oysters at fish markets, invest in an oyster knife and start getting some opening practice. Check out youtube for instruction. It is really not that hard, my teenage nephews mastered it after a couple of goes; not a bad thing to add to their life skills set.
Oysters Australia recommends: From their harvest date, unopened Sydney Rock Oysters should be kept close to 20°C for up to 14 days and unopened Pacific Oysters at 5°C for up to 7 days. So that they can breathe and keep cool, wrap or cover oysters in a damp cloth. Storing in plastic, in water or on ice will kill them! This is a good guide but their youtube demo suggests storing live oysters in the fridge. This is fine for Pacific Oysters but Sydney Rocks, which like warmer waters, a cool place like the laundry is a much better choice. Once opened eat them straight away.
For the best oysters I recommend heading to our local farmers markets and chat to John The Oyster Bloke and get a net or two of his beautifully sweet Sydney Rock Oysters. To see which markets he will attend check his facebook page.
After a few goes at opening your own the world is your oyster. The phrase the world is my oyster actually comes from Shakespeare’s The Merry Wives of Windsor. Falstaff says, I will not lend thee a penny. To which Pistol replies, Why then the world’s mine oyster, Which I with sword will open. We use the phrase to mean that there are opportunities and rewards to enjoy, not with the brute force of the sword, as suggested by Pistol, but with a little application (of a small oyster knife). Enjoy.
You might be tempted to think that white strawberries are a modern monstrosity but they are in fact a hybrid variety created from a natural white strawberry indigenous to Chile. Why all the excitement about a white version of strawberry? Attributes of the white strawberry include an amazing perfume, a small berry size with a delicate soft texture and a lovely, lovely flavour. Just close your eyes, pop one in your mouth and experience real flavour and luscious berry texture. I’m sure you will be convinced. Being white allows some creative opportunities. A white wedding cake with a mass of berries with their blush of pink could look magnificent. Pair white strawberries with a red or a green colour focus – think jellies, sorbet or the intense green of a matcha roll cake. White strawberries look great with chocolate too. Here I have made a bavarois with red strawberries to contrast the white strawberries. Gippsland Strawberries are selling their white (Blush) strawberries now at farmers markets around bayside Melbourne, including VegOut St. Kilda. Check their Facebook posts for upcoming market attendance. Alternatively, if you have a green thumb then take a trip out to The Diggers Club at Herronswood, Dromana and buy some midi pots of strawberry “Pineberry” to cultivate.
Potatoes, pumpkin and spinach are winter market staples. Each can be used to good effect independently but I’ve brought them together in one delicious dish: sautéed potato gnocchi with roast pumpkin and spinach. Potato gnocchi are easy to make and sautéing the cooked gnocchi in olive oil with a little knob of butter for taste really raises this to restaurant fare. Let’s face it a little sauté treatment makes many foods special, think sautéed potatoes with garlic and rosemary or pan fried gyoza dumplings or French toast. Sautéed gnocchi work best when the cooked gnocchi are drained, spread out on a tray to dry out a little before they land in the buttery fry pan. You want to get rid of some of that moisture trapped after boiling in water and firm the outside a little, making it easy to flip them to brown each side to golden crunchiness. I treat the spinach in the Japanese way by cooking a whole bunch of spinach and then squeezing out all the water when cool and chopping it up. This maximizes the amount of healthy spinach per serve while appearing balanced on the plate. The meager alternative is to toss in a handful of baby spinach leaves at the end but I prefer the Popeye approach. Finished with a little crumbled goats cheese and toasted pine nuts this is definitely going to be a favorite for dinner this winter.
Cook the gnocchi in a large pot of boiling salted water and scoop out the gnocchi when they rise to the surface. Drain the cooked gnocchi in a colander and then spread them out on a tray to cool and dry out a little. Roast the pumpkin cubes in a little olive oil at 180°C until tender, approximately 20 minutes. Remove the stems and wash the spinach well in 2-3 changes of water to remove any grit or mud. Place the washed spinach in a saucepan and wilt it with gentle heat and then drain and cool. Once cool enough to handle squeeze all the water out and chop it coarsely. In a frypan heat 2 tbs olive oil with a knob of butter and gently sauté the gnocchi until golden. Add the roasted pumpkin and the chopped spinach and gently mix. Plate out and top with crumbled goats cheese and toasted pine nuts.
I recommend the J C’s Quality Nuts brand. Look for the packet labelled Pine Nuts from New Zealand, available from quality green grocers around Melbourne.